The north eastern state of Terengganu is best known for being Malaysia’s cultural heartland. The pace of life is much slower, there are less trappings of modern life and traditional values are important to the people who live in the state. However, for visitors who want a really relaxing holiday, free from the cares of their busy urban lifestyle, this northeast Malaysian region could just be the place. Terengganu’s natural and cultural assets are on display this year for all to experience during Visit Terengganu Year 2008.

Beaches and Islands

The less-visited east coast, fronting the South China Sea, features several groups of islands with the main ones being Redang and Perhentian (Kecil, or Small Island and Besar or Big Island). Tenggol, Kapas and Bidong Islands to the south are not as developed and therefore, less crowded. The best mainland beaches are located in the northeast of the peninsula around Rantau Abang. Development on the islands and along the beachfront is all very low-scale with few high-rise resorts like in some other parts of the region. Extensive coral reefs and waters brimming with marine life lure divers who appreciate competitively-priced diving packages while staying in comfortable and mostly quite basic chalets. You may have to adjust your social clock so don’t expect wild aprés fun in the sun as the nightlife is very quiet with most visitors rising and sleeping early.

The first islands from the northern border with Thailand are the Perhentians which are accessible by ferry from Kuala Besut situated to the south of Kota Bharu in the neighbouring state of Kelantan. These are some of the most laid-back of the major islands along the east coast. The big island has the more expensive accommodation and a quieter ambience. Kecil is home to an array of cheaper clusters of chalets which mostly appeal to backpackers who find the relaxed pace of life in marked contrast to most islands located in Thailand. Both islands are definitely chill-out zones that appeal to budget travellers and avid divers. Bring a good book or some lively company to keep you entertained.

Like many Malaysian islands, the waters off Pulau Redang are classified as a marine park to ensure protection for the marine life living here. While turtles are one of the most exciting sights, especially when they come onto the beaches to lay their eggs, their numbers have declined dramatically over the past decade. The situation along the peninsula coastline is worse and the state’s ecotourism industry that once used the turtle as its logo; has declined along with turtle numbers. Redang is one of the largest islands along the east coast and is big enough for its own airport. This, however, is a small airport that can only accommodate aircraft with a capacity of around 20 passengers, so the island will never really get overrun with tourists. The good news for Singaporeans is that there are direct flights to and from the island state to Redang. While lazing in the sun is on the top of most tourists’ must-do list, diving is important for many. The departure point for Pulau Tenggol is the small town of Kuala Dungun. The cluster of 12 islands in the Tenggol group is the quietest of all the islands but the diving and water ‘vis’ is superb. Chalet accommodation is available and boat transfers are included in package rates that are mostly sold as full-board lodging. While sun seekers will feel quite at home on the long stretches of white sandy beaches, there is little to do here but chill out or dive so anyone who visits Tenggol is most likely to be in the company of groups of keen divers. While the chalet accommodation is comfortable it is not luxurious so don’t come expecting the facilities of international hotels. Visitors can fly to Pulau Redang from Kuala Lumpur on Berjaya Air or catch a boat from Merang situated just north of Kuala Terengganu (not to be confused with Marang to the south).

 

Eclectic Heritage

Kampung Cina, located in the market district of Kuala Terengganu, is a significant national heritage site. This historic precinct shows a unique cross section of Malaysian cultural heritage as it includes the Istana Maziah, the Chinese business community and several surrounding Malay kampungs. The eclectic mix includes Chinese shop houses along the waterfront and adjoining Terengganu styled timber houses. While the district still supports some of the historical trades that once made it a bustling commercial area, there has been a decline in these activities and the physical structures supporting them since activity peaked in the 19th century. The historic district is the site of the original capital of the Sultanate of Terengganu located at the mouth of the Terengganu River. Given its strategic location along ancient trade routes, Terengganu became a centre of trade long before the modern state emerged. By the beginning of the 18th century, Kuala

Terengganu was well established as a trading port dealing mainly in the export of pepper, gold, tin, sugar, camphor and, gambier (a medicinal product extracted from acacia trees). Foreign vessels brought into port the finest silks and other goods from China and nearby Indochina. Much of this was re-exported by Chinese and European merchants. Many of these merchants established and traded from the waterfront and the original Kampung Cina settlers were directly engaged in this lively trade through a system of pajak (concessions) from the Terengganu rulers. They were involved in the sale and bartering of textiles, metalwork and woodcraft products made by the Malays who lived and worked in adjacent communities. Interestingly enough, the market area is still the busiest part of town. Pasar Payang or central market, located on the waterfront is where fresh vegetables, fruit and fish are still sold. Look closely and you will also see some clutches of turtle eggs which the traders will all tell you come from neighbouring countries as it is illegal to gather turtle eggs in Malaysia. There are also some craft shops here selling locally produced batik, songket, baskets, silver jewellery and brassware. The original settlements in the old capital were, and still are, a mixture of distinct communities that continue to live harmoniously and interact, trade and benefit from each other. Two reports by Badan Warisan ( Malaysia’s heritage society), proposed the establishment of a historic district for those areas associated with the original Kuala Terengganu capital. Nos. 51 and 53 Jalan Bandar feature detailed shop house façades that exemplify the history and lifestyle of the family of one of the early the settlers of Kampung Cina.

Supporters of the preservation project believe that this oasis of cultural and architectural variety can be maintained and developed into a thriving, dynamic centre for living heritage and fascinating cultural tourism. The city has several other cultural attractions including the Terengganu State Museum (Kompleks Muzium Negeri Terengganu) located beside the river, 3km from the city centre. Considered to be one of the largest in the region, the museum replicates a traditional Malay village. Inside there are textile displays, artifacts, handicrafts and, a display devoted to the state’s principal source of revenue, petroleum. Traditional wooden fishing boats are also located in the grounds along with the Istana Tengku Long which is actually an old wooden palace that dates all the way back to 1880. Many cities throughout the world are discovering that heritage developments can be an economically viable alternative to large-scale redevelopment. In many cases, heritage developments improve the overall quality of a settlement, maintaining a historical link to the past while attracting more business and tourism dollars to the local economy. Perhaps in years to come the inner heart of Kuala Terengganu may become a heritage tourism zone.

Sporting Events That’ll Blow You Away

The east coast has a long tradition of boat building and the small cluster of islands centred on Pulau Duyong, is still home to traditional and modern boat building yards. Pulau Duyong is situated in the middle of the Terengganu River just opposite the centre of downtown Kuala Terengganu. These artisans have acquired their skills from their fathers who passed them down from their fathers. They have all built boats supposedly without blueprints or plans. Colourfully decorated wooden fishing boats were once quite a common sight all along the east coast and even into southern Thailand. Called bangau, the boats are painted in bright colours and incorporate many intricate patterns. Many of the patterns supposedly date back to early Hindu mythology or, more recently, to Islamic art and all its complex geometric detail. In the past, these sleek vessels depended upon sail power for their mobility but in the oil-rich state of Terengganu, most now have powerful inboard or outboard motors as their main means of propulsion. While the traditional wooden boats are still built, new state-of-the-art sailing boats are making their presence felt. This began two years ago with the staging of the spectacular Monsoon Cup event (www.monsooncup.com.my). The Monsoon Cup blew into town and has since established itself as one of the region’s premier yachting events. This prestigious event is contested late in the year (28 November to 2 December in 2008) when the monsoon winds blow strongest for some exhilarating sailing on the waters off the port of Kuala Terengganu. Asian ambassador for tourism and film star, Jackie Chan, visited the site when Terengganu was first considered as a venue for one of the legs of the cup, and gave it rave reviews. The Monsoon Cup is one of the legs of the World Match Racing Tour and Malaysia is the first Asian destination to host the prestigious event. It manages to attract a lot of local spectators as well as international race followers and contestants and is also beamed to the sporting world via various television networks. According to organisers, the spectator numbers make it Malaysia’s second biggest sporting event after the Formula 1 Grand Prix held at the Sepang Circuit every April. The 100-room Heritage Bay Club and Resort (www.heritagebayclub.com.my) has a marina and resort that is home to the Monsoon Cup and, for guests who visit at other times of the year, it offers the city’s finest accommodation. There are just 58 rooms and suites in the resort and all decorated in a style that reflects their east coast location but with modern facilities such as expensive TVs and wi-fi throughout the resort.

Natural Attractions

Apart from the islands and beaches, there are many other reasons to visit Terengganu, with the natural attractions of the interior being the main ones. Parts of Malaysia’s best-known national park of Taman Negara are located in Terengganu. The Terengganu access is best left to adventurers led by a capable guide and the departure point is from the southern end of Tasik ( Lake) Kenyir. Visitors to this section of the park can also visit the large limestone caves of Bewah and Taat. Lake Kenyir is the largest constructed lake in South East Asia and is a popular recreational destination in the northeast. The lake was formed when Kenyir River was dammed back in 1985. Visitors need to appreciate the scale of the lake that covers some 260km2 so moving about takes time and a boat is essential. Several comfortable lodges are located here and watersports around the lake are popular. Another popular way to tour and appreciate the lake is on a houseboat which especially appeals to people who love to fish in remote places. The locals love to go jungle trekking and picnicking at one of several waterfalls around the lake. This is a popular weekend activity (which in this part of the world is Friday and Saturday). Some distance away at Gunung Stong there is a waterfall that is one of the highest in South East Asia. Back on the coast there is a recreational forest called Hutan Lipur Rantau Abang that’s well worth deviating into. The coastal stretch is quite barren and the beaches, long and mostly deserted. The adjoining coastal forests resemble the everglades of America with paperbark trees forming dense stands of forests growing in extensive pools of water. There are rest shelters and the area makes a very pleasant location to stop for a rest while driving along the long coastal road.

Relaxing Resorts and Hotels

Visitors to Terengganu are attracted by the relaxed pace of life and simplicity found in the local villages. Many resorts cater to local visitors and while the facilities in some may be limited, the welcome is always friendly. The main coastal and offshore tourist destinations starting from southern Terengganu are – Kijal, Tenggol Island, Tanjong Jara, Rantau Abang, Kapas Island, Marang, Kuala Terengganu, Redang Island and Perhentian Island. Tanjong Jara Resort with its awardwinning Malay architecture and fine beachfront is one of the east coast’s most exclusive resorts. Kapas Island Resort is the preferred address on this delightful island located just 10- minutes boat ride from the photogenic fishing village of Marang. There are just 60 units in the resort, a swimming pool (although the waters off the beach are just perfect), a seaside open-air restaurant and some good diving sites just off the beach. The offshore island of Pulau Redang attracts mainland and overseas guests because of the air service operated by Berjaya Air. The alternative is to take a ferry from the small mainland jetty at Merang. While fishing villages still exist on Redang, in seemingly makeshift homes above the water, several large resorts cater to tourists. Check into the 273-room Berjaya Redang Resort that covers much of the coconut plantation along Sultan’s Beach. Laguna Redang Resort is also large and offers equally comfortable facilities. Other good resorts and hotels along the coastline include – Awana Kijal Resort, Kijal, Residence Resort in Paka, Seri Malaysia in Marang and Kuala Terengganu, Best Western Merang Suria Resort and, Permai Inn, Kuala Terengganu.

Getting Around

Flying is the quickest way to access the various islands and beaches around the peninsula. Berjaya Air (www.Berjaya-Air.com) flies from Kuala Lumpur to Redang and Tioman Islands in neighbouring Pahang on most days of the week. Travellers need to note that these flights depart from the old international airport of Subang on the outskirts of Kuala

Lumpur although there are also direct flights to both from Singapore. Flights on AirAsia (www.airasia.com) depart from the Low Cost Terminal at KLIA for Kuala Terengganu and Kota Bharu. Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com) flies from KLIA to the same destinations as well as Kuantan. Some of the offshore islands are also accessible from the mainland by regular ferries although it’s best to check with the resorts along the east coast as they may close in November and December due to the unpredictable effects of the monsoon.