The man’s head is buried inside the folded white and blue parasol as he gesticulates and comically struggles to open it. I cannot help smiling. This is a good beach, extending onto a grassy area where the shade of big old leafy trees beckons. Fine sand and shimmering blue water as described in a holiday brochure. A single catamaran sways gently by.

The line of green wooded small islands breaks up the vastness of the sky where puffs of white clouds float. There are no rowdy people, no hawkers offering T-shirts or fishing trips, no litter bar scattered cigarette stubs tossed in the sand. This is Pantai Tengah on Langkawi, Island of Legends, pretty as a picture, and taken over by a transient international community.

A Russian family seems indecisive about whether to go swimming or not. Babushka is shaking her head, as she walks back to the sun lounger. Two chaps behind me are exchanging boring details of metro and road transport in France. Next to them, an already sun-burnt English couple is avidly soaking up the hot sun in silence. Over there, I recognise the New Zealanders I talked to at breakfast, tiptoeing gingerly on the burning hot sand. And there’s the German lady we met last night working on her laptop at the bar. The Thai masseur is reading his newspaper between two clients. Peals of laughter rise above a group of deckchairs ( I can’t see the faces).

If it is true that one’s choice of swimwear is a giveaway of one’s character, then there is a kaleidoscope of personalities in this social microcosm of strangers thrown together at random. Garish or subdued one-piece suits, bikinis competing in their minimalism, Speedos, Bermudas, sarongs, and modest long sleeved flowing batik attire. It is not St Tropez, however, and fashion statements are scarce, perhaps in the shape of a wristwatch, sunglasses or an MP3.

Clusters of sun-loungers grouped together provide a common sense of purpose, and I find myself imagining their possible background. Business people recharging their batteries, welcoming the break from the rat race or the rigours of the winter; young couples pursuing a romantic dream.

“Hey, Lisa! I must get a proper tan before I go home!” mutters a young woman frying herself in a teensy weensy bikini. “You tired?“ Lisa is yawning. “I’m always tired when I’m doing nothing!” The locals must be amazed at the Caucasians’ pursuits - some spend practically the entire week tanning and relaxing, not even venturing out of the hotel.

Yet there are things to see and do on Langkawi. It’s a shame the Summer Palace where “Anna and the King” was filmed has been moved; transported to the Oriental village next to the Cable Car we were told. I was looking forward to seeing it again.

There are waterfalls and caves to visit. Away from the various duty-free places around the main town of Kuah, the Air Hangat village provides insight into local crafts – its good quality batik garments and pewter wares are tempting. There are stunning coastlines and landscapes to photograph. If water sports is your thing, you’ll spend days sampling them all! I’m puzzled that some people are happy to travel so far if all they want is a sunny beach, although the unspoilt aspect is of course enticing.

The Frenchmen are now comparing notes on previously-visited countries. Malaysia will no doubt be discussed back home and in their next holiday destination, which might just encourage others to find their way here to the gentle lifestyle of Langkawi. I hope so.