It’s rarely that I recommend a destination because it’s most endearing feature is that there’s nothing to do there. Most of us travel or take weekend escapes because of some attraction or activity but Fraser’s Hill appeals mostly because there’s nothing to do there. Of course, on closer inspection there are many activities from bird watching to walking forest trails but if you really want to go somewhere to put your feet up and do nothing, then Fraser’s Hill is ideal. Believe it or not there’s no ATM or papers available either.

Many travellers visit South East Asia for its warm weather and sunshine. While such weather is a bonus for most, the heat and humidity can take its toll even on the most intrepid traveller. In the days before air conditioning the only respite from the often oppressive tropical lowlands was to travel to cool mountainous refuges.As such, South East Asia’s coolest resorts developed in isolated mountainous locations; places like Cameron Highlands, Fraser’s Hill and Bukit Larut (Maxwell’s Hill).

All South East Asia’s hill stations have an interesting history and landscapes resembling distant shores thanks to the colonialists trying to recreate an outpost of home. So today, visitors to Fraser’s Hill could be forgiven for thinking they were in England with the mock-Tudor bungalows, temperate gardens, open fireplaces and Devonshire teas.

Visiting
There are lots of good reasons to make the trip to Fraser’s Hill but the main ones are that it’s close to Kuala Lumpur (two-hour’s drive) and that the air is cool. It’s also one of the few places in Malaysia to relax in the evening in front of open fireplaces.

The best thing about this cool temperate destination is that it’s possible to walk in comfort around the rural roads, gardens and along forest trails. This means lots of physical activity such as hiking, golf on the nine-hole public course (where you can hack around at weekends for RM40 a game), tennis, cycling, horse riding and sightseeing are possible.

This hill retreat retains its colonial charm and offers an escape to a more peaceful and relaxed life. The Tudor-styled bungalows and temperate gardens provide a strong sense of colonial ambience.

Unlike the more developed Cameron Highlands, Fraser’s Hill is a lot smaller, compact and most attractions are within a comfortable walk from each other. It rarely gets crowded and thus appeals to those who really do want to escape the madding crowd. Discover the rich montane flora on one of several well-established trails in the highlands with Bishop’s Trail being a good introduction. It starts from near Silverpark Apartments and comes out near Muar Cottage and passes though some beautiful forest with tall tree ferns. Signposts at the trail head provide useful information on things to be seen.

Eating
The only place to dine with any style is Ye Old Smokehouse where traditional Western cuisine dominates – yes, roast beef with Yorkshire pudding is a highlight. Guests in the boutique hotel are content to indulge on Devonshire teas and a nightcap in the cosy fire-lit lounge.

Hotels such as the Pines and Shahzan Inn serve food but this is more for those who eat to live and not vice versa. Restaurant Hill View is an institution in town but redevelopments of its base and the whole Puncak Inn complex creates uncertainty as to where the restaurant will ultimately re-establish. Its no-nonsense approach to good value-for-money food will ensure its survival.

Drinking
Being a champion for bring your own (BYO), I love Fraser’s Hill as it’s about as dry as the Sahara here – there are plans to bring back the old village pub but until they do, alcoholic beverages in Fraser’s are as scarce as a taxi on a rainy KL night.

Staying
To fully appreciate the colonial ambience the best hotel in town is Ye Olde Smokehouse (T: +609 362-2226, www.thesmokehouse.com.my). While related to the small hotel in the Camerons it’s operated independently but offers a similar range of accommodation, ambience and facilities. This intimate Tudor-inspired establishment of just a handful of individually-styled rooms and suites with four poster beds is set amongst delightful temperate gardens in a quiet part of the mountains. Many Malaysian companies own private stone bungalows for their senior staff to seek inspiration in the cool mountain air. Some are now available for rent with HRH Bungalows (T: +603 2164- 8937, www.hrhbungalows.com) having six on their books with rents ranging from RM150/room to RM2,000 for the whole bungalow. These houses have multiple bedrooms and are available for families and small groups of friends to rent. They all come with caretakers who double as cooks.

Shopping
Forget it; this isn’t the place to even think about shopping.

Travelling
For some reason best known to the tourism officials, Fraser’s Hill doesn’t warrant directional signage along the North South Highway - use the Rawang or Tanjung Malim exits, head to Kuala Kubu Baharu and then look for the signs to Fraser’s Hill.

One of the unique features of travelling here is the final, one-way 8km road to the summit. This means that from 6am to 7.40pm, one-way traffic applies – odd hours, the traffic goes to the summit and even hours, the traffic comes down. Public transport is non-existent except for long distance taxis from KL or Tapah (Tapah Road train station).

Tips
Take your time driving to Fraser’s Hill as the road is narrow and circuitous and once there, seek out local guide K.S. Durai (T: +6016 619 3153, durefh@hotmail.com) who knows every inch of the place. His services are keenly sought by birders seeking out some 260 bird species. Fill your petrol tank up before heading up the mountain as there’s none available at Fraser’s Hill.

Contact
Fraser’s Hill Information Centre:
+609 362 2195