
As an expat, you’re probably from cooler climes. Let’s be honest, the searing heat and cloying humidity is one of the most difficult things to get used to in Asia. However, if you fancy a short respite but can’t spare the time to go all the way home, then the Cameron Highlands is a great halfway house.
Here, the cool weather (although it’s true that temperatures are higher now than they were a couple of decades ago) and architecture will transport you straight back to Surrey or Stratford-upon Avon. Just three hours from KL, the largest hill resort in Malaysia is situated 1,800 metres above sea level in the mountainous central state of Pahang. It was named after British surveyor William Cameron who discovered it in 1885, and became a popular colonial retreat after it was developed in the 1920s. Nowadays, it remains popular with locals and tourists alike.
Fortunately, although access is much easier with the new highway from Simpang Pulai instead of the old road from Tapah with its hair-raising hairpin bends, the highlands with their three main townships of Brinchang, Tanah Rata and Ringlet are still relatively untouched. The gentle old-world feel is relaxing, and life goes by a few paces slower than the rest of the country.
There are some beautiful old houses about, and as you drive from one town to the next, look out for the mock Tudor architecture. Ye Olde Smokehouse is a good example, and so is the recently-refurbished Cameron Highlands Resort. The lovely Moonlight Bungalow, which used to be owned by Thai-silk king Jim Thomson who famously and mysteriously disappeared after he went for a walk in 1967, is still there, lonely in all its deserted splendour.
It’s the sort of place to go with other families, as, when evening draws in and the weather cools down significantly (do bring warm clothing), it’s nice to settle down and entertain yourselves with some games and a drink (or two). Apart from eating out and the weekend night markets, there’s not much else to do in the evenings, which is exactly what you want in a retreat.
During the day, however, there is plenty of activity to keep the whole family happy. The cooler weather is perfect for golf, and the public 18-hole course (05.491 1126) here is relatively cheap and empty (RM52.50 weekdays). The rose and butterfly farms, cactus valleys and jungle walks, not to mention the cold, will ensure everyone sleeps well at night.
It’s also very pleasant to sit on the viewing platform of the Boh Tea Plantation, started by Englishman J A Russell, and enjoy a cuppa while looking out on the acres of tea bushes. The original factory still processes the leaves which are plucked by hand every weekday morning. I was quite pleased to just sit down and savour the beautiful, calming scenery and sunny afternoons, even managing to acquire a light tan in just a few days there.
As the purveyor of much of the country’s vegetables and flowers, because of its altitude and rainfall, there are many large farms and smallholdings around, some of which you can visit to see different produce being grown. In the last decade, the strawberry has planted itself firmly as the most popular fruit here, and appears to have become the highland’s symbol. Practically every souvenir shop you come across – and there are many – sells a strawberry trinket, from pillow cases to mugs, balloons to key rings. You can pick-your-own or buy the juicy, luscious fruits in different-sized punnets. The Kasihmanis Strawberry Farm (Tel. 05. 491 2260), started by friendly Kodimani’s father, was one of the first, and here you can see rows upon rows of the green, leafy plants dotted with red berries, and even have a juice, shake or ice cream made from this delicious fruit.
I’ve mentioned the night market, which takes place in Brinchang on Friday and Saturday evenings, worth a visit if only to see how cheap local produce can be, particularly if you go towards closing time. However, unless it’s to take home, I personally wouldn’t be buying much there, as the chances of me doing any cooking are slim – with so many restaurants and outlets both in Brinchang and Tanah Rata, there really is no need to. Steamboat, or the Mongolian Hot Pot, where everyone cooks a selection of raw food in a stock at the table, is understandably very popular to warm chilly evenings, and it’s available everywhere. There are also plenty of other outlets offering practically every kind of cuisine, including English tea and scones... with jam – strawberry, of course.
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Do take the trouble to drive up there, but go during the week if possible. The number of visitors to this popular resort can apparently swell during weekends and public holidays, sometimes creating traffic jams of four to five hours even in the short distance from Brinchang to Tanah Rata.
Apart from that, the Cameron Highlands is really a very pleasant place to visit, with the family, for a bit of R&R and above all, to cool down.