Some things in life are just unavoidable facts: you’re a bit fatter than you think you are, the biggest jams occur when you’re late, and a feature about Langkawi will bang on about how splendid the beaches are. Well, not this feature. No sir. Lovely as the acres of white sand surrounding the 99 islands of Langkawi may be, there’s so much more to do on holiday here than sitting endlessly on a sun lounger knocking back Martinis. I wish to celebrate the hidden Langkawi – the treats that the average tourist forgets to experience. The Giant Eagle or the cable car to the top of Gunung Mat Cincang both have their charm, but everyone does those, so lets take a look at the real adventures, the titbits that generally you only discover by word of mouth.

Take, for example, the splendid sunset cruises offered by Crystal Yachts – see, I’m easing you away from the beach step by step, don’t worry, you’ll still be able to view it behind you. However, I promise that what lies ahead will be of much more interest: the glory of a hundred shades of orange as the sun meets the horizon. The experience, as if it wasn’t already splendid enough to be aboard a 42-foot yacht sailing your way around ‘Sunset Point’, is greatly enhanced by the superb on-board barbeque and free-flow alcohol.

Organised by Canadian Jamie Scott and his endlessly cheerful wife Ryoko, the cruises have been departing almost daily for 19 years. Surely they must be sick of seeing the sun go down by now: “Definitely not,” says Ryoko. “It’s a different experience every evening, so you can never see it too many times.” A similar sentiment could be expressed about time spent with the singularly named Dev. As well as being Langkawi’s leading naturalist, he also possesses the kind of engaging manner that leaves you hanging on his every word. With Dev as your guide you can explore Langkawi’s splendid ecology – whether that be through a bicycle ride along river banks, paddy fields and forest, a mangrove kayak trip, jungle trekking or bird watching

While you’ve got such an experienced guide by your side, why not request an excursion to Gua Tok Sabung? This fascinating cave contains some of the most impressive stalactites and stalagmites in all of Langkawi, many of which are as attractive as quality marble. You better be feeling brave that morning though as thousands of bats roost within, shrieking away. Another cave worthy of consideration is Gua Pinang. Located off a tributary at Kuala Kubang Badak, this cave is situated in an area which was under the sea thousands of years ago, as indicated by the abundance of ancient seashells embedded in the cave walls.

If caves aren’t your cup of tea, there are plenty of mangroves to visit instead. Dev can arrange tours. “The mangroves are fascinating,” he says. “Mangrove trees are capable of tolerating a salty environment, until the next low tide exposes them to fresh water. Each mangrove tree species has its specific location – so trees with a low tolerance to saltwater are close to the rainforest, while trees with a big tolerance are closer to the sea and have developed stilt roots.”

Langkawi isn’t just about outdoor activities though, if it’s raining (or even if it’s not) a trip to Underwater World (found at Zon Pantai Cenang) is recommended. The 34,701 square foot oceanarium is most notable for its gigantic 15m long walk-through tunnel surrounded by 500,000 litres of seawater. Housed in the water are many big fish and sea creatures including the Giant Green Turtle. With more than 4,000 different fish and animals to gawk at (covering 500 different species) you’re guaranteed to leave the attraction knowing more than when you went in.

Of course, some of you will be feeling that I’ve missed the entire point about sitting by the beach, it’s not about being idle, it’s the pleasure of a cooling dip in the sea never being more than a few steps away. But there are plenty of ways to keep cool around Langkawi without going anywhere near the sea – from waterfalls to lakes. Perhaps the most impressive is Telaga Tujuh, or Seven Wells. This magnificent waterfall is a geological marvel where the water cascades about 90m down via a series of seven pools, hence its name. Adding a mystical touch to the natural splendour is the lush green forest that surrounds it. Legend has it that fairies used to visit the spot to frolic and bathe.

Of course if Telaga Tujuh excites you you’ll be blown away by Durian Perangin, located in Raya Mountain Nature Park, as this waterfall has 12 levels of cascading water. Getting to either location is easy enough if you have a word with a local taxi driver, but again we’d recommend giving Dev a call to get the most from your trip.

For swimming a great option is Tasik Dayang Bunting (or Lake of the Pregnant Maiden) a freshwater lake on the island of Dayang Bunting, the second largest in the Langkawi archipelago. The lake is the setting for one of Langkawi’s most famous and enduring legends. It is said that Mat Teja, a male genie, secretly fell in love with Mambang Sari, a beautiful female genie, on the island. They had a baby next to the lake but it died after a week. Saddened by the death Mambang Sari took the child’s body and threw it into the lake, which gave rise to the belief that swimming in its waters can make women more fertile.

The same ‘escape the beach’ philosophy behind these activities can apply to where you choose to stay too. The Sheraton Langkawi Beach Resort in Teluk Nibong, is a great example of this. This excellent hotel doesn’t boast endless miles of pristine sand – although there is a small stretch for those that desire it – instead it offers a totally different experience. Set among an immense and fascinating tropical rainforest – 38 whole acres, in fact – you truly have nature on your doorstep. Here you can walk around the gardens and see an array of monkeys, lizards and hornbills. The lobby offers exceptional views across the Andaman Sea while the charm of the exterior’s dark hardwoods instantly turns ones thoughts towards traditional Malaysian architecture.

The use of exotic timber continues inside the rooms, which are especially notable for being among the biggest on the island. Each is air conditioned, furnished with a huge bed (which, is one of the comfiest I’ve ever been lucky enough to spend a night in) and designed with an extremely luxurious separate shower and deep bath.

The resort enjoyed a US$3.3 million refurbishment in 2005 and the quality shines through still. It’s not just the big TVs in the rooms, or the giant balconies which prove perfect for unwinding after a day of inland activities, but touches like the excellence of the staff and the magnificent spa run in conjunction with the flawless Mandara Spa company. Few places on the island offer such a wide range of foods either, with Western, Chinese, Indian and Malay options available. Perhaps our favourite of these is Feast, which is a great place to eat at any time of the day although you really shouldn’t miss out on a meal on the veranda of Spice Market which is like dining in the rainforest canopy.

So, if you happen to be lying on the beach reading this, have a think about making the move inland. There’s a lot more to Langkawi than most people realise – it’s just sitting there waiting to be discovered.