Being essentially a solo
walker and organiser
of my own itinerary,
it is sometimes
difficult to go on trips
conducted by others.
Occasionally these
can be fascinating but
all too often the locations or the guides
are wanting. I have heard a Sarawak guide
announce “this is virgin jungle” when he
was standing in new secondary forest and
watched another try to hack his way with a
clearly blunt parang. If I don’t like it I can’t
write about it and then I feel rather cheated.
So an invitation to check out Junglescape’s
Rainforest Experience at Tanarimba (jungle
country) was received with some mixed
feeling. A 3-km jungle walk near Genting
Highlands is not exactly my idea of fun.
Controlling my sensibilities, I arrived early
at Tanarimba – a quick one hour drive
from KL to Janda Baik. It is 5000 acres
of privately leased forest surrounding a
“homestead” site next to several thousand
more of, hopefully, protected forest
at about 2000 to 4000 feet. The early
indications were not bad, the road was
windy and narrow and the architecture
passable. As I kitted up, I saw the guides
arrive. The Land Rover was a good sign.
No other vehicle, except possibly a 1940’s
jeep, looks so right in the jungle. A Hi-Lux
is too flash and vans simply a joke.
Baha looked competent and answered my
questions about the area knowledgeably
in English and Malay. At first I thought
Paul was an ex-squaddie (soldier) as
he looked so comfortable in his worn
camouflage trousers and jungle boots.
Remember the rule – your guide must look
as if he or she just came out of the jungle
not out of the shower!.
The safety briefing was encouraging,
matter of fact and without any false “It’s
okay” promises, such as those one often
hears about leeches. We were introduced
to Larry the Leech and shown how to
handle him and others of that ilk. This
is actually a good psychological move as
watching Larry arching across Paul’s hand
is a far better introduction than a first
encounter once he is attached to your
ankle. So we stroked Larry, learning that
he is not slimy (the same misconception
applies to snakes) and the brave ones
practiced pushing his head to one side
(to break the suction), rolling him into a
ball before flicking him off. Done properly
Larry can be removed in 2 seconds flat.
If further reassurance was needed, Paul
provided good quality leech socks, which
worked quite effectively.
We got into the Land Rover and started
on a bouncy ride along an old track to
the trailhead. There we were introduced
to medicinal herbs – styptics to control
bleeding and analgesics for pain. More
importantly, we were told how to identify
the common jungle stinging nettle,
something that I wish had been told to
me 30 years ago!.
FThe walk was undulating but, as Paul
and Baha often stopped to explain a
point of interest, it was not taxing and
one did not run out of wind necessary to
have a conversation.
After a while we came to a multi-tiered
waterfall which we crossed and ascended
by a cargo net.This is another example of
the care that went into the planning as the
cargo net is at once both more adventurous
and safer than the usual knotted rope that
one finds. Should you slip you will be caught
by the net almost immediately. This should
appeal to the young and adventurous while
reassuring the less confident.
During the walk we heard the whooping
calls of gibbons contesting their foraging
territory, something they do every day.
Often they can be seen high in the trees
where they spend their entire lives.
Another arboreal specialist who seldom
comes to the ground is the Spectacled or
Dusky Langur which is common here.
The walk contours around hill slopes
and occasionally crosses over the ridges
where one can see good views of the
eastern side of the main range. In places
there are signs on encroachment on
other hills. The ecology is a mix of
mature forest with patches of young
and older secondary forest. This latter is
not necessarily uninteresting as we can
see stands of wild pepper and hornbills
frequent this area of the forest as well.
We often heard their “chuff-chuff” flight
and caught glimpses of saw them in
the trees. At the end of the walk, a large
hornbill obligingly posed for some time
by the side of the road. The wildlife here
is surprisingly “tame”. On the way back,
a boar studied us for several minutes
with inquisitive eyes and nose allowing
us to approach to two metres instead
of fleeing.
At one point we stopped to “make
a difference” and we each planted a
rainforest tree sapling on a hill slope
which has been reclaimed from illegal
agricultural use. After the tree planting,
we stopped for lunch at a bamboo-roofed
hut. While we were waiting for our rice
cooked in bamboo with chicken rendang
(curry) we drank coconut juice and
Paul demonstrated how to make fire in
the jungle with the bamboo fire saw. If
you wish, you can try your hand at this
skill. It is the main fire starting survival
technique for the jungle.
Junglescape offers a trip that is
refreshingly different from the usual
tramping on the well-worn FRIM and Ulu
Langat waterfall trails. The limit is one trip
a day of four to ten persons which reduces
the impact on the forest so you walk on
soft soil not pounded earth. The intention
is to offer a genuine rainforest experience
especially for those who have never had
one. The hike is remarkably unhurried
and rest stops are frequent and filled
with information. It is not a walk for
those who see the hills as a substitute
for a treadmill. If you wish to stay
longer at Tanarimba you can in a cottage
or at Enderong Hall, where there are
facilities for private groups and small
corporate retreats.
Tanarimba is an excellent walk if you need
to show the jungle to a visitor who does not
have time to do Taman Negara or similar
places and the leech socks were great!.
For more information on Junglescape, visit
www.junglescape.com.my
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