Welcome to Jungle Country
By Ashleigh Seow

Being essentially a solo walker and organiser of my own itinerary, it is sometimes difficult to go on trips conducted by others. Occasionally these can be fascinating but all too often the locations or the guides are wanting. I have heard a Sarawak guide announce “this is virgin jungle” when he was standing in new secondary forest and watched another try to hack his way with a clearly blunt parang. If I don’t like it I can’t write about it and then I feel rather cheated.

So an invitation to check out Junglescape’s Rainforest Experience at Tanarimba (jungle country) was received with some mixed feeling. A 3-km jungle walk near Genting Highlands is not exactly my idea of fun.

Controlling my sensibilities, I arrived early at Tanarimba – a quick one hour drive from KL to Janda Baik. It is 5000 acres of privately leased forest surrounding a “homestead” site next to several thousand more of, hopefully, protected forest at about 2000 to 4000 feet. The early indications were not bad, the road was windy and narrow and the architecture passable. As I kitted up, I saw the guides arrive. The Land Rover was a good sign. No other vehicle, except possibly a 1940’s jeep, looks so right in the jungle. A Hi-Lux is too flash and vans simply a joke.

Baha looked competent and answered my questions about the area knowledgeably in English and Malay. At first I thought Paul was an ex-squaddie (soldier) as he looked so comfortable in his worn camouflage trousers and jungle boots. Remember the rule – your guide must look as if he or she just came out of the jungle not out of the shower!.

The safety briefing was encouraging, matter of fact and without any false “It’s okay” promises, such as those one often hears about leeches. We were introduced to Larry the Leech and shown how to handle him and others of that ilk. This is actually a good psychological move as watching Larry arching across Paul’s hand is a far better introduction than a first encounter once he is attached to your ankle. So we stroked Larry, learning that he is not slimy (the same misconception applies to snakes) and the brave ones practiced pushing his head to one side (to break the suction), rolling him into a ball before flicking him off. Done properly Larry can be removed in 2 seconds flat.

If further reassurance was needed, Paul provided good quality leech socks, which worked quite effectively.

We got into the Land Rover and started on a bouncy ride along an old track to the trailhead. There we were introduced to medicinal herbs – styptics to control bleeding and analgesics for pain. More importantly, we were told how to identify the common jungle stinging nettle, something that I wish had been told to me 30 years ago!.

FThe walk was undulating but, as Paul and Baha often stopped to explain a point of interest, it was not taxing and one did not run out of wind necessary to have a conversation.

After a while we came to a multi-tiered waterfall which we crossed and ascended by a cargo net.This is another example of the care that went into the planning as the cargo net is at once both more adventurous and safer than the usual knotted rope that one finds. Should you slip you will be caught by the net almost immediately. This should appeal to the young and adventurous while reassuring the less confident.

During the walk we heard the whooping calls of gibbons contesting their foraging territory, something they do every day. Often they can be seen high in the trees where they spend their entire lives. Another arboreal specialist who seldom comes to the ground is the Spectacled or Dusky Langur which is common here.

The walk contours around hill slopes and occasionally crosses over the ridges where one can see good views of the eastern side of the main range. In places there are signs on encroachment on other hills. The ecology is a mix of mature forest with patches of young and older secondary forest. This latter is not necessarily uninteresting as we can see stands of wild pepper and hornbills frequent this area of the forest as well. We often heard their “chuff-chuff” flight and caught glimpses of saw them in the trees. At the end of the walk, a large hornbill obligingly posed for some time by the side of the road. The wildlife here is surprisingly “tame”. On the way back, a boar studied us for several minutes with inquisitive eyes and nose allowing us to approach to two metres instead of fleeing.

At one point we stopped to “make a difference” and we each planted a rainforest tree sapling on a hill slope which has been reclaimed from illegal agricultural use. After the tree planting, we stopped for lunch at a bamboo-roofed hut. While we were waiting for our rice cooked in bamboo with chicken rendang (curry) we drank coconut juice and Paul demonstrated how to make fire in the jungle with the bamboo fire saw. If you wish, you can try your hand at this skill. It is the main fire starting survival technique for the jungle.

Junglescape offers a trip that is refreshingly different from the usual tramping on the well-worn FRIM and Ulu Langat waterfall trails. The limit is one trip a day of four to ten persons which reduces the impact on the forest so you walk on soft soil not pounded earth. The intention is to offer a genuine rainforest experience especially for those who have never had one. The hike is remarkably unhurried and rest stops are frequent and filled with information. It is not a walk for those who see the hills as a substitute for a treadmill. If you wish to stay longer at Tanarimba you can in a cottage or at Enderong Hall, where there are facilities for private groups and small corporate retreats.

Tanarimba is an excellent walk if you need to show the jungle to a visitor who does not have time to do Taman Negara or similar places and the leech socks were great!.

For more information on Junglescape, visit www.junglescape.com.my

Lankayan1

Lankayan1

Lankayan1

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