OFTEN IT IS WHERE A STREET LEADS THAT IS MORE INTERESTING THAN THE STREET ITSELF. DAVID BOWDEN EXPLORES THE ROADS OF KL AND DISCOVERS A CITY WITH A HISTORICAL HEART RIGHT WHERE INDEPENDENCE WAS DECLARED - JALAN PARLIMEN.

Sometimes it is the journey that is just as important as the destination. For me, the essence of exploring a new destination is wandering, usually without a guidebook, with no particular sense of purpose, other than to see where the road leads to.

Central Kuala Lumpur is blessed with several expansive open areas and the journey from Dataran Merdeka, in a northerly direction towards Parliament House provides access to much greenery, gardens and points of interest. Parliament House is off-limits to visitors and the general public, so you can only view this national landmark and what has been referred to as the 'toast rack' from afar and perhaps chat to the security staff at the entrance. The road that leads to these green places is Jalan Parlimen (formerly called Club Road as it also leads to the Royal Lake Club located within the parklands along the road).

One thing that continually amazes me about Kuala Lumpur is that it is constantly changing. As I prepared to explore Jalan Parlimen and walk past the Lake Gardens, I was informed that it was now called Taman Tasik Perdana. A new Bahasa name was acceptable but when I asked the taxi driver to take me to Lake Gardens, he knew exactly where I wanted to go. When I arrived, though, I discovered the name had been changed yet again. In June 2011, the area became Taman Botani Perdana situated in the Heritage Park of Kuala Lumpur. Now, I'm sure if I had said that name to the cabbie, he would have had no idea as to where it was!

ROAD TO DEMOCRACY
The southernmost part of Jalan Parlimen starts where Jalan Tun Perak ends at the Jalan Raja Laut and Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman intersection. Some of KL's finest architecture is located just on the southern side of the road. The area exhibits an eclectic mix of mock-Tudor style architecture (the Royal Selangor Club overlooking Dataran Merdeka) and the delightfully ornate, Mogul-styled Sultan Abdul Samad Building. While it dates back to 1884, the current Royal Selangor Club (RSC) building was only built in 1970 after the original one burnt down. Jalan Raja Laut, that sits in front of the RSC, is closed from 7pm to 5am on weekends (as well as for major events such as the recent Merdeka Day celebrations) and is usually alive with people enjoying the cool of the area of Dataran Merdeka.

While the streetside landscaping from Jalan Raja Laut to Parliament House is exceptional, a huge concrete pitcher plant themed fountain on the left-hand side of the road was my first encounter with 'wild' KL. Apart from being a place to pose for a photo, the purpose of this oversized carnivorous plant is not clearly defined. The road forms a bridge over the Gombak River. which meets the Klang River just a little further downstream in front of Masjid Jamek. The city's origins are in these two rivers as it was here that tin was discovered and where the first city settlement started in 1857.

If you safely negotiate the pedestrianunfriendly roundabout at the Jalan Kinabalu and Jalan Kuching intersection, you will notice Jalan Tangsi running off to the left. In front, is the sombre grey-coloured Wisma Ekran, which once housed a mining company called Anglo Oriental. Although it now appears to be empty, it is an interesting example of Eclectic Art Deco architecture. Deviate down the small street to look at what was once the Malaysian Institute of Architects (PAM). This historic building dates back to 1907 and was once called Loke Hall. after its owner, Loke Chow Kit. In 1909 it became a hotel and remained as such until 1973 when PAM took over what is widely considered one of KL's finest structures. An extensive restoration project by the city council is currently underway on this historical building, with just the façade being preserved.

GREEN BELT
From Wisma Ekran and the National Press Club (a member's only club) at the rear, the carefully manicured Jalan Parlimen is landscaped on both sides of the road plus the median strip. Just up the street, the road and footpath pass beneath the KTM train line which provides an inner city train service as well as trains heading northwards along Peninsular Malaysia to the Thai border. Just up the road, there is a small landscaped park and shelter. A lily-lined pond is located in the front and if you stop here for a while, you might see tiny lizards water and pond's edge. On the right hand side of the road, a large open field is used for rugby matches and the goal posts make for an unusual sight in soccer-crazy Malaysia.

At the intersection with Jalan Sultan Salahuddin (heading east or the right) and Jalan Cenderamulia (off to the left), visitors are faced with three decisions – turn left, turn right or turn both right and left. Whatever your choice is, you will end up in what is commonly known as Lake Gardens.

I chose the former. Jalan Sultan Salahuddin leads to the ASEAN Sculpture Garden and the National Monument (Tugu Negara). The sculpture garden was opened in 1981 and holds a piece of sculpture from every nation that exhibited at the ASEAN Sculptures Symposium held in Singapore of the same year.

The gardens provide a serene setting for the National Monument which is a memorial to the Malaysian service personnel who sacrificed their lives in defending the country. A bronze sculpture features five victorious members of the various armed forces standing over two slain Communist terrorists. It was created by Felix de Weldon whose handiwork is best represented in the Iwo Jima monument in Washington D.C. The Tugu Negara is an essential stop on every city bus tour and the crowds usually roll in from 10am to 11am. It is a shame that many visitors do not appear to appreciate that this is a monument for the service personnel who sacrificed their lives to defend the country.

Returning back to the main intersection and traffic lights, I scurried across Jalan Parlimen to the main part of the park. There are numerous paths, roads and trails with good directional signs to all the main attractions, including the Bird Park (www.klbirdpark.com), Butterfly Park (www.klbutterflypark.com), Orchid Garden, the Royal Lake Club (www.royallakeclub.org.my), Memorial Tun Razak and Carcosa Seri Negara (www.shr.my). There are several other leading attractions such as the National Museum (www.muziumnegara.gov.my), National Planetarium (www.angkasa.gov.my) and Islamic Arts Museum of Malaysia (www.iamm.org.my) located on the perimeter of the gardens.

HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT
Continue up Jalan Parlimen towards Parliament House and after a pleasant shaded walk beneath old rain trees, most traffic veers off to the left towards Jalan Duta. Virtually no traffic continues along Jalan Parlimen – only those who are heading there on official business (or those who've lost their way) are seen driving up the street.

Parliament House or Bangunan Parlimen is an 18-storey complex housing the Dewan Rakyat (House of Representatives) and the Dewan Negara (Senate). In front of the tower block is the inverted v-shaped building that resembles a toast rack. After independence in 1957 there was a significant development of new buildings in the country that became an expression of Malaysia's nationalistic aspirations.

Architects talk of the building as an expression of international style and the 'toast rack' is actually 11 triangular concrete pinnacles that form what has been described as "a concertina roof reminiscent of the skin of a pineapple". It supposedly resembles the Bugis or Malacca roof form.

Those who walk there will find that the elevated road places them high up amongst the canopy of some of the tall trees in the area. Take some time out to look at the colourful foliage and birdlife here as this brush with nature is often difficult to find large cities.

GETTING THERE
The nearest rail station is the Masjid Jamek LRT interchange (where the underground Kelana Jaya Ampang Line). The Kelana Jaya Line connects to the main rail hub of KL Sentral. Exit the station and head northeast along Jalan Tun Perak below the elevated train line. Jalan at the intersection of Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman and Jalan Raja Laut. Alternatively, catch a taxi to Sultan Abdul Samad Building and start walking from there.

WALKS IN THE GARDENS
Perdana Botanical Gardens,
Unit Rekreasi, Taman Botani Perdana
(T: +603 2021-0812, www.klbotanicalgarden.gov.my).
Free walks of the gardens are conducted every Sunday at 8am and 10pm and private walks can be arranged.