The ocean holds an almost mystical appeal, especially for sailors. Whether for commerce or recreation, the feel of the deck moving beneath your feet and the sound of the wind stretching sails and the creaking of mast and spars is irresistible.

Stories abound regarding the boating investment - the bigger the yacht, the bigger the bills and the financial risk. Otherwise intelligent people become obsessed with their vessels, men and women give up land-bound pursuits to be sprayed with saltwater and beaten by the weather.

In Langkawi, boats are affairs of the heart, not the head; fiscal considerations are secondary. In 1997, there were only 40 ocean-going yachts on the island. Now, over 500 crowd the three major marinas here.

Cast before the angular multi-level edifice of the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club, the breakwater shelters over 200 boats, both powered and sail, and 30 more arrive for the Royal Langkawi Regatta. The regatta circuit comprises events across the Southeast Asian region, from Thailand to Singapore to Malaysia and Indonesia. A caravan of yachts, crews and skippers spend months in goodnatured battles against each other for boasting rights and trophies.

One of the vessels that follows the circuit is the “Rascal,” skippered and owned by Gavin Welman, a successful entrepreneur out of Singapore. “We had her built in Sweden five years ago, bubble wrapped and shipped down to Langkawi,” said Gavin, with pride. “Hallberg-Rassy constructed the boat in Sweden, sailed her to check she’s watertight and then sent her with a few factory people to install the deck winches and all the other gear.” At 53 feet in length, Rascal is equipped for long haul cruising with home comforts as well as an extensive galley, three staterooms and air conditioning.


Originally berthed in Singapore, the Rascal relocated to Phuket and now spends most of her time in Langkawi. “Coming in and out of Singapore has just gotten really difficult in recent years,” Gavin notes. “The Customs and Immigration team around Malaysia make it very easy for sailors to move around and they are efficient and courteous. It makes it a real pleasure to arrive here. (Former Prime Minister) Dr Mahathir knew that world-class facilities for yachts are an essential part of making an island a luxury destination,” he added and the explosion of berths and large yachts in the last few years is testament to the success of that philosophy.

No man sails alone and, in the case of Rascal, Gavin is joined by a collection of friends - men of similar age, disposition and varied sailing experience. Peter Garland, originally from Virginia, USA, was a round-the-world sailor before taking up residence recently on Langkawi in a house near to Gavin’s. “We sold our flower business in Switzerland a few years ago and moved down here.”

Peter and his wife Gin are novices at this kind of sailing, but are fitting out a boat at the island dockyard. Quitting Switzerland after over thirty years, their house was completed only six months ago atop a hill commanding 360 degree views around the bays and islands surrounding the main island. “We were looking for a quieter pace of life,” observed Peter. “We originally met in Melbourne and then decided to try Europe for a while”.

“After thirty years in Europe, it was time to come back to Asia,” adds Gin, originally from Singapore. “Our children have grown and we love our place among the islands.”

David and Dominic have travelled further to haul rope and trim sails, coming from Thailand and the south eastern part of France respectively to help out with duties onboard. “My partner ran off to the USA with friends before Christmas,” said Dominic who has been sailing on the Rascal for several months.

There’s an easy-going camaraderie among the crew, the kind that comes from years of shared experience. They move fluidly about the Rascal as she heads out of the harbor to the waiting start boat at the beginning of the Royal Langkawi Regatta race. The boat moves under engine power to make the start of the competition. As the harbor opens to ocean, the mainsail is hoisted and the boat creaks as ropes stretch and sails fill.

“Mainsail up, hoist the genoa,” calls Gavin as he orchestrates the action from the helm. Rascal strains before the wind, mainsail filling, spinnaker flying and the bow is soon slicing through the early morning waters. The island behind is lit with a soft orange glow from the rising sun, the water lazily undulating as the horn on the start signifies that the race is underway. The rising breeze leads to a quick consultation among the crew and the voluptuous spinnaker is set to take maximum advantage of the breeze and push the boat through the water at over ten miles an hour.

“We can make up to 10 knots,” Garland comments, his Virginia accent still evident after many years as a global sailor and entrepreneur. “Mostly we make around seven knots and that will get us round the island in three to four hours.”

No more time to talk. The wind freshens and all move to release the huge spinnaker. “We’ve been sailing this regatta for the last couple of years.” relates Gavin. “We’ve done quite well. It’s nice opportunity to sail between the Thailand events and the Raja Muda race, which we have won, in Malaysia.”

A half hour down the coast Pulau Dayang (the large island directly beneath Langkawi which forms the other side of Kuah harbor), the first turn of the race approaches. The rest of the fleet has left the start boat and is straining to take Rascal’s lead. Rascal’s nemesis, Astra, is closing the gap. “She’s a lighter, longer and faster boat than Rascal,” says Peter with some dismay. Making the turn around Pulau Dayang, the wind dies and the crew must use every ounce of combined experience, sail and plain luck to make headway up the harbor passage. Astra is similarly stuck, but eventually recovers and finishes ahead of Rascal.

Why do they do it? Give up home, hearth and family for weeks of salt water, tight quarters onboard and hard work hauling, trimming and stowing sails? “I can’t seem to stop getting involved in sailing,” says Gavin, “and it will gradually become a bigger part of my life.”