20 Hot Things to See and Do in Malaysia in 2012
By David Bowden

Not only does Malaysia provide fascinating cultural experiences, but for those you enjoy adventure, nature, watersports, indulging and wilderness encounters, there is an abundance of holiday activities and destinations to enjoy. Here’s veteran travel writer David Bowden’s selection of 20 hot things to see and do this year in the wonderful country of Malaysia.

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

The lively Thaipusam festival will be staged with a holiday on 7 February, 2012. It is celebrated by Indians whose descendants settled in Malaysia from southern India (mostly Tamils). The liveliest celebrations are those in KL’s Batu Caves and Penang.While the festival is not recognised anymore in India, it manages to attract almost a million Hindu worshipers and onlookers to Batu Caves alone. The religious activities last several days starting with a chariot procession from the Sri Mahamariamman Temple located in Chinatown for the 15km journey to Batu Caves. At the ceremony at the caves, devotees carry heavy decorated frames called kavadi up the steep steps to temples located in Batu Caves. Body piercing adds to the drama of this spectacular but crowded event.


JUNGLE BEAT


A visit to Sarawak’s Cultural Village at Damai Beach, near the capital Kuching, is educational and the easiest way to discover more about Sarawak’s multiculturalism. Some 23 cultures coexist in the state and the homes of nine of these are located around the lake in the centre of the village. From 13-15 July, 2012 the village hosts the 13th Rainforest World Music Festival which is a three-day celebration of eclectic world music in an atmospheric outdoor setting. Workshops and a very friendly festival vibe make for an enjoyably enlightening weekend. Head north to Miri for the equally exciting Borneo Jazz Festival to be staged from 10-12 May, 2012. More information: www.rainforestmusic-borneo.com and www.jazzborneo.com


LANGKAWI’S ALIVE


While best known as an island offering sand, sea and sunshine, Langkawi also has some interesting cultural aspects and an amazingly diverse natural environment. Combine this with some of Malaysia’s premier resorts, enticing restaurants, a reasonable selection of duty free goods and its proximity to Kuala Lumpur; it’s easy to see why Langkawi is such an appealing holiday destination. In November 2011, the first Langkawi Live One Earth Music Festival was staged and plans are already in place for the second music festival beside the sands of Pantai Tengah in front of the Frangipani Langkawi Resort and Spa. The festival was very laid back with music lovers relaxing on beach loungers as the sun sank into the Andaman Sea. The artistes included some superb local musicians and a handful of international performers. During the day, festival goers relaxed on the beach or joined in workshops with the performers. During the festival weekend, they indulged on fine wines, ate in a smorgasbord of local and international restaurants and were pampered in one of several spas. More information: www. langkawi-live.com


COLONIAL GRANDEUR


Apart from Penang’s Eastern & Oriental (E & O) and Kuala Lumpur’s Carcosa, there are really no other grand heritage hotels in Malaysia. Once billed as the finest hotel east of the Suez, the E & O, built in 1885, was restored a few years back but many of the old features remain. Their traditional English afternoon tea served in 1885 Restaurant is well worth the experience if only to relive the grand old colonial days when this would have been an essential part of the journey to the Far East. Take a stroll along the hotel’s seafront promenade and sip G&T’s in the garden to reconfirm that life doesn’t get much better than this. More information: www.e-o-hotel.com


TO MARKET, TO MARKET


The sun rises in East Malaysia earlier than in Kuala Lumpur so Gaya Street Sunday Market in downtown Kota Kinabalu kicks off early and finishes just after midday. The market is very popular with locals and tourists. Local in Sabah means a more complex cultural mix than the peninsula as the people have many ethnic backgrounds including from the neighbouring Philippines. While the locals seek out utilitarian items such as pots, plastic buckets, fresh fruit and vegetables and possibly a “cure-all” potion from the medicine man, tourists will be more interested in the souvenir stalls (t-shirts, jewellery, beadwork and some rip-off items). I especially like the Tenom coffee stall that sells freshly ground local beans from the town of the same name located at the terminus of the Kota Kinabalu to Tenom train. Various restaurants line the street, some doing a lively trade selling dim sum to locals who seem to have come for faraway for the Sunday street action. More information: www.sabahtourism.com


WILD RIVER PARK


Taman Negara, Malaysia's largest national park, is accessible by a leisurely two-hour sampan journey along the Tembeling River. The 4,343 km2 park covers parts of three states with intrepid tourists heading by coach from KL and then onto sampans for the 70 km journey to park headquarters situated in the middle of the rainforest at Kuala Tahan. Companies such as Asian Overland Services offer packages which may be the most cost effective way of appreciating all that the park has to offer. Taman Negara is blanketed by lowland tropical forest and walks, thrilling river boat journeys, wildlife watching from inside one of several hides and traversing a canopy walk are the main activities. Unfortunately there’s no luxurious accommodation with the best choices being either the Mutiara Resort or one of several rustic chalets located outside the park on the other side of the river. More information: www.asianoverland.com.my


URBAN RENEWAL


There’s renewed interest in preserving Penang’s historical and cultural assets. Within the George Town UNESCO World Heritage zone old buildings are being renovated to their original glory. Cool things are happening on Armenian Street with the opening of boutique hotels (like Straits Collection), trendy cafés, restaurants and galleries which are injecting contemporary lifestyle elements into the historic fabric of the location. The recently opened China House at 153-155 Beach Road typifies this urban renewal. It includes shops, cafés, restaurants, gallery and space for theatre. More information: www.straitscollection.com.my


TURNING JAPANESE


The Japanese Gardens and adjoining botanic gardens are located at 1,200m altitude in the Berjaya Hills Resort (formerly Bukit Tinggi), about one hour’s drive east of Kuala Lumpur and situated off the East-West Karak Highway. The meticulously-designed gardens include marble-paved paths, waterfalls, temperate flora and ponds full of koi fish. Guests can stay in the Ume Tatami Suite, dine in Ryo Zan Tei Restaurant, sip tea in a tea house and buy souvenirs from the small shop here. More information: www.berjayaresorts.com


GET DOWN AND DIRTY


Sarawak's Gunung (Mount) Mulu National Park is another UNESCO World Heritage Site protected for its massive caves and forest-covered limestone mountains. While the park is named after Sarawak’s highest mountain, it’s the huge expanse of subterranean natural features that attract visitors to the 52,866ha park. Fly from Miri to Mulu to get down and dirty in Lang, Deer, Wind and Clearwater Caves. At dusk witness for two hours one of nature's greatest phenomena as millions of bats fly out of the caves. It’s possible to climb Mount Api and Mulu but this is best left to experienced mountaineers types as the jagged limestone can be very dangerous for novices. More information: www.mulupark.com


LOVE TO EAT


In case you haven’t noticed, Malaysians live to eat with the country being renowned for its tempting and value-formoney food with the main styles being Malay, Chinese and Indian. These are complemented by many international cuisines. Eat in hawker stalls or fine dining restaurants depending upon your inclination and budget. One of the best experiences during the season is to pull up a stool in an open-air market to discover the taste of smelly but sublime durian fruit. KL has vibrant food streets such as Jalan Alor (hawker food), Tengkat Tong Shin (local and regional restaurants) and Chinatown's Petaling Street.


BIG-NOSED PRIMATES


The Kinabatangan River at 560km is Sabah’s longest river and the floodplains of the lower reaches are some of Borneo’s most species-rich habitats. Mercifully saved from logging and plantation expansion, the forests around the Menanggul River are now part of the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary situated near the small village of Sukau. Here sightings of Proboscis Monkeys, Orangutans, various other primates, reptiles and an extensive list of birds are everyday occurrences. Sightings of elephants and crocodiles are much rarer but not off the agenda. Last time I was there I could hear elephants in the forest, saw their distinctive prints in the mud and their inevitable droppings. Stay in the eco-friendly Proboscis Lodge and discover all there is to know about the forests with the aid of expert local guides. More information: www.proboscislodge.com


HUFFING’AND PUFFING’ ACROSS SABAH


The North Borneo Steam Train (operated by Sutera Harbour Resort) is a nostalgic tourist train that operates from Tanjung Aru (opposite the airport) to Papar and back. It operates on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 10am to 2pm and is substantially more expensive than the normal passenger train but lunch, beverages and atmosphere are included. The train recreates the days when the stream train was one of the few ways to access the bounty of the Sabah rainforests. Alternatively, take the local train all the way to Tenom, stay the night, visit the superb Agricultural Park here and catch the return train back on day two. More information: www.northborneorailway.com.my


CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN


Malaysia’s tallest mountain, Mount Kinabalu, at 4,095m is up there with the worlds highest. It's also a hot bed of biodiversity with more than 5,000 plants being identified within the 750 km2 park. While the challenge of the two-day summit ascent appeals to adventurers, armchair travellers can take it easy and admire the tropical flora around park headquarters. Climbers make a well earned overnight rest in reasonably comfortable accommodation at Laban Rata before heading into the darkness of the second morning to reach the summit for sunrise. This is no walk in the park and anyone planning to make the climb should book well in advance and get into shape. More information: www.sabahparks.org.my


KIDS’ KLUB


Children are welcome in most Malaysian resorts and staff always seem to be on hand to help with the child minding. One of Malaysia’s most family-friendly resorts is Club Med situated along a quiet east coast beach north of Cherating. Staff implement meaningful activities that appeal to kids and teenagers. Take them once and they'll be begging you to return – yes, it’s that good. Parents can also go wildly crazy over all-inclusive holiday packages that include meals, accommodation and a free-flow of beverages including alcohol. Club Med isn’t just a kid’s place though as there are many meaningful activities for adults as well as those that involve the whole family. More information: www.clubmed.com.my


HEAD FOR THE HILLS


Bario is located in the remote Sarawak highlands and is only really accessible by flights from Miri. At 1,500m altitude, Bario has a refreshingly cool ambience and the most popular walk is a pleasant but demanding four-hour trek across undulating hills to a longhouse called Pa' Lungun where there’s a local guesthouse offering overnight accommodation. Dine here on wild boar accompanied by Bario’s famous upland rice. Lodgings are extremely reasonably priced in both Bario and Pa’ Lungun with twin sharing rooms being available along with three hearty home-cooked meals. Stay in guesthouses such as Gem’s in Bario and Batu Ritung Lodge in Pa’ Lungun which is best arranged once you reach Bario. Malaysia Airlines has daily flights, weather permitting, with two on some days. More information: www. kelabit.net


TEA TIME


You really have to pinch yourself to be reminded that you’re indeed in the wilds of Sabah while partaking of scones, clotted cream, preserves and local tea while playing a round of croquet, while peafowl roam the grounds of this old house perched above Sandakan Bay in Sabah. The English Tea House and Restaurant is one of the last bastions of colonialism so go ahead and indulge as you’ve probably deserved it after an adventurous visit to the nearby Orang-Utan Sanctuary or the wetlands of the Kinabatangan floodplain. This is unashamedly British but don’t feel too guilty as it really feels like it belongs here in contemporary Malaysia. Morning or afternoon teas here with scones and all the trimmings are also one of Malaysia’s best-valued indulgences. Afterwards, take a stroll up the road to the Agnes Keith House and learn about Sandakan in the 1930’s and 40’s where US author Agnes Keith wrote several books here including the famous Land Below the Wind. Now only if I knew the rules of croquet! More information: www.englishteahouse.org


YOUNG N’ FOOLISH


Not for the faint-hearted, the Langkawi Rainforest Adventure will challenge those who take action seriously. This four-hour journey into the rainforest involves rappelling, abseiling, crossing narrow crevices and “flying” through the rainforest canopy on a series of wires – like a flying fox. The last glide, 30m above the ground is the most exhilarating as it ends in a huge rainforest emergent and the only way out is to rappel to the ground. Challenging but very rewarding and great for teambuilding with a small group or a family with an adventurous spirit. The operators now offer “lite” and full versions with the former being best suited to kids and families. The rainforest and views of the Langkawi coast are also quite spectacular if you can take some time out to admire them. More information: www.langkawi.travel


TWISTS N’TURNS


The 6,428m, par 72, Damai golf course has been described by Arnold Palmer as “…the finest test of golf with the most dramatic setting of all in Malaysia. This is a ‘must play’ course for those who love golf.” It might not come as any surprise that Arnold designed the course. Despite this, it’s a very picturesque and challenging 18 holes with fairways located beside the South China Sea, near mangrove-lined streams and up into the foothills of Mount Santubong which towers overhead. More information: www.damaigolf.com


A SPECK IN THE SULU SEA


If movie directors were looking for a movie set to film a remake of Robinson Crusoe, Lankayan Island is the ideal location. It’s situated a 90-minute speedboat ride from Sandakan off Sabah’s northeastern coastline. This mere speck in the Sulu Sea is surrounded by aquamarine waters and has just one resort with 16 wooden chalets which is home for divers from around the world. The underwater world, with 14 dive sites, is the place to see corals, eels, rays, turtles, schools of fish and even the occasional whale shark. Black-tip sharks make regular appearances into the shallows below the resort’s sundeck which laps the Sulu Sea. Lankayan is perfect for divers and those who want to lose contact with the world for a few days. More information: www. sabantourism.com


INDULGENT IPOH


Okay, Ipoh is rarely combined in the same sentence as indulgent but bear with me for a few moments. Imagine you could sleep in your favourite restaurant, drink and eat until you’ve had your fill and then clamber upstairs to your individually decorated suite to recover for your round of indulgent wining and dining. Ipoh’s award-winning Indulgence Restaurant and Living is a dining space and boutique hotel with seven individually-designed suites. Imported, fresh and seasonal ingredients inspire Chef Julie Song’s mostly Western menu and there’s an impressive wine list to complete the exquisite dining experience. When you book to stay, you’ll have to specify the room you like as no two rooms are the same. Choose from rooms named - Qatrynka, English Country, Moroccan, Italian, Thai, Contemporary and Chinoisserie. All are meticulously appointed with inspiring and luxurious design elements. More information: www.indulgencerestaurant.com

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